I’m finally in the so-called “Narrows” of Nueltin Lake, a complex maze of islands and channels that separates the southe…

I’m finally in the so-called “Narrows” of Nueltin Lake, a complex maze of islands and channels that separates the southern from the northern portion of the lake. There was even a little bit of current flowing north, which allowed me to rest for a couple of minutes, the water moving me against the ever-present headwind. This is, by far, the most complicated lake I have ever been on. Your navigation skills had better be on point up here… #lostinthebarrens If you’re enjoying thi...s journey then please consider pre-ordering Perseverance, Life and Death in the Subarctic at the following links or…

I was out in the big swell, trying to stop my canoe from turning sideways in the waves when I spotted this newly built c…

I was out in the big swell, trying to stop my canoe from turning sideways in the waves when I spotted this newly built cabin at the foot of an esker. It didn’t look like anyone was home. The wind forecast for the rest of the day, and for tomorrow is pretty dismal - high winds all the time from varying directions. I found myself thinking, “Cabins in the North are usually unlocked, and wouldn’t that be a nicer place to wait out the wind than some bug infested campsite?” I actua...lly swung the canoe around and started making my…

This may look like an idyllic picture, but I guarantee you getting to this beach was anything but idyllic. The wind is p…

This may look like an idyllic picture, but I guarantee you getting to this beach was anything but idyllic. The wind is proving an incredible obstacle on Nueltin Lake, and the large size of the lake means that the waves can get pretty big after the wind has been zooming across the surface of the water for a couple of miles. I respect bears, but the real hazard up here are the large lakes and the cold water. I had a necessary one and half kilometer crossing this morning, and wi...thout wind, I could’ve done it about 15 to 20…

Today was a very hard day. I was on the water from 9 AM to 7 Pm pushing 275 pounds of boat and gear, plus the weight of…

Today was a very hard day. I was on the water from 9 AM to 7 Pm pushing 275 pounds of boat and gear, plus the weight of my own body, against an unrelenting North wind. Despite using every trick I know, progress was so slow; 10 hours of work only brought me 17.5 km of the bird flies from where I started today (although, admittedly, it’s probably more like 25 km as the fish swims). Unfortunately, I got news today by satellite text that the weather tomorrow will be very, very w...indy with extreme gusts. If this is the…

Back on the water, making miles when I can. We are officially north of 60° latitude, putting us into the territory of Nu…

Back on the water, making miles when I can. We are officially north of 60° latitude, putting us into the territory of Nunavut, previously part of the northwest territories. It’s amazing how the tree line coincides with this political boundary here; the tops of most of the islands are tundra, surrounded with a fringe of trees at the base like a tonsured monk #northof60 #nueltinlake #lostinthebarrens

By midnight I was still going strong, and given the fact that the never really dark up here this close to solstice there…

By midnight I was still going strong, and given the fact that the never really dark up here this close to solstice there was a strong temptation to paddle through the night. Ultimately it was a difficulties of navigation by twilight that drove me to shore. I made a camp on top of a steep esker with a stunning view, and set both my tripwire bear alarm and my motion alarm. #nueltinlake #lostinthebarrens

After being trapped on shore most of the day, the wind started subsiding at about 8PM. By 8:30 PM I was on the water pad…

After being trapped on shore most of the day, the wind started subsiding at about 8PM. By 8:30 PM I was on the water paddling North. For once it was easy to make progress, even an easy stroke ate up the miles. I hadn’t gone very far when I saw a large yellow-brown animal shambling on the shore. It would disappear into the bushes and then re-emerge. At first I thought it was yet another bear, likely a grizzly this time given the coloration, but then I realize that my sense of scale was completely wrong. It was a giant…

BEAR! And a large one too. I keep my campsites and my kitchens separate to avoid contaminating my gear with a smell of f…

BEAR! And a large one too. I keep my campsites and my kitchens separate to avoid contaminating my gear with a smell of food, so I was heading to the kitchen with my stove and dinner (hoping to eat early so that I can paddle later in the evening if the wind drops), and I saw him; a great big, beautiful, black bear. He was minding his own business, shambling across the landscape, nose down, looking for food. I relaxed and took photos. Then he turned towards me and started headi...ng my way. When he was about 200 feet away,…

On the plus side, my campsite is on top of an esker, which is a very pretty place with lots of sand and open vegetation….

On the plus side, my campsite is on top of an esker, which is a very pretty place with lots of sand and open vegetation. Lots of animal tracks too, one of which I got to run into later in the day… #lostinthebarrens

To beat the wind I got up at 4:30 AM and was on the water by 5:00. Unfortunately, the wind got up about the same time as…

To beat the wind I got up at 4:30 AM and was on the water by 5:00. Unfortunately, the wind got up about the same time as me, and soon I was battling heavy gusts and waves. I barely made it 5 km before I had to stop, but at least I improved my campsite. I set up my tent so I can nap and wait for conditions to improve. So far this trip is proceeding at a dismally slow pace. The lake is 150 km long, I’ve only been managing about 10 km a day due to wind, but…